From Vila Velha to OuroVerde

Last Saturday, Junia decided to take me to various points in the city. First, we went to the Convento da Penha, which used to be a convent but now is a church and tourist attraction. There was a mass going on when we went, with many people attending. The convent is on a hill and from there you can see both the cities of Vitoria and Vila Velha. Afterwards, we went to the Tamar Turtle Project in Vitoria, which is a station of a project that works for the protection of sea turtles in Brazil. There, they had several sea turtles, which are much bigger than I expected, as well as facts about the turtles and the history of the center. We then ate a traditional buffet lunch in a shopping center and decided what to do next. I had made it a goal to see one movie in theaters while in Brazil, and so we went to a movie theater. They had many of the same movies that are out in the US, but dubbed in Portuguese of course. However, the only movie that was playing at that time which we wouldn’t have to wait for was “As Golpistas” (Hustlers). So, we decided to see that one. It was a good movie, a little bit sad, but very interesting to see what the world of a stripper in New York looks like. I understood most of it, even without subtitles, so I was very happy about that. The next day I had arranged to go surfing with Rogeria’s friend, Mouricio. I was also returning a book to him from Rogeria, which she had borrowed about 7 years ago but never managed to return. He picked me up at 7:30 and we went to pick up his girlfriend and his girlfriend’s aunt, because they, along with other friends and family of his, were also going to the beach with us. Mouricio is the epitome of “chill surfer dude”, and was very fun to hang out with. We then went to his house, where his mom and others were preparing food for the beach trip. It’s a beautiful house, with many artisanal crafts and a beautiful garden. The group was also an interesting one, and I never quite figured out how everybody was connected. Everyone was very welcoming, however, and insisted I feel at home with them. We finally managed to get out of the house (no easy task with 9 Brazilians), and drive to the Paulo Cesar Vinho State Park. This park is an area that protects an area with a type of forest known as Restinga, in which the trees are shorter and there are many bromeliads, among other things. I find the different types of forest in Brazil so interesting, and each is beautiful in its own way. After a 40 minute walk, we stopped at the beach where we would spend the day. It was an area where a river meets the ocean, resulting in a mix of fresh and salt water. This river was interesting because it was full of tannins that had seeped into the water upstream, resulting in water that looked like black tea, and was about as warm as tea (because the river was shallow and it was a sunny day). They called it the “Coca Cola River”. On a beach at the bank of the river we set up our camp, and began snacking on the food they had prepared, which consisted of sandwiches, breads, Brazilian cake, and fruit salad. After hanging out there for a while, Mouricio took me surfing. First, he had me draw a “board” in the sand and practice the moves I would use to get up. Then we got in the water, me on the surfboard and him in the water next to me, and he told me about the water and the waves and how to catch one you could ride out on the board. Finally, when Mouricio deemed me ready, he pushed me towards the shore with a big wave. I went much further than I expected, and was exhilarated! We got back in the water and did the same thing. The third time, I was able to get on my knees! We continued for a little while, and by the end, I was able to crouch on the board, which Mouricio said is a surfing style known as “hotdogging”. I was very happy with my first surfing experience, and hope to do more someday sooner than later. The next day, Monday, was my day to rest and pack for the impending bus journey. I made American pancakes for breakfast for Junia and me because she had told me about her visit to New York and the diner she went to there with these amazing pancakes for breakfast. I figured they were traditional American pancakes, and I was right: Junia was beyond excited when they turned out just as she remembered them. I wrote down the recipe for her, and she promptly shared it with several sisters and cousins. I made french toast later that day too, which she also enjoyed. I was very glad to be able to cook some of the foods I have been missing, and realized that I actually don’t mind cooking. That evening, I took an uber to the bus station at 5:00 and got into the bus at 6:30. This bus would take me all the way from Vitoria to Ilheus, a distance of almost 500 miles. The bus was what I consider a luxury bus, with reclining seats, charging outlets, and Wi-Fi. I was able to sleep for a good amount of the way, and we arrived in Ilheus around 11:30 the next morning. From there I took another bus to Serra Grande, Bahia, where Mestre Cabello and his 7-year-old daughter Alice (pronounced ah-LEE-see in Portuguese) came and picked me up! We drove to the farm, Fazenda OuroVerde, which is incredibly green and lush. This whole area is significantly less destroyed than where I was in Minas Gerais at Iracambi, and is also a rich mix of ecosystems, with the coast being very near. The farm grows several different things, like pineapples, and coconuts. I have not quite figured out the whole system, but each day I am learning more. There is the main house, where Cabello and Tisza and Alice live, and several cabins where volunteers or guests stay. I am sleeping in a simple wooden cabin with a double bed, but will likely end up moving into the cabin with 6 bunkbeds (12 mattresses) as more people arrive. I am the only volunteer here, but there is a big Capoeira event in January that people from all over the world are coming for, and many of them will stay here at the farm. There is a shared bathroom for everyone with toilet stalls and shower stalls (no hot water), and a large volunteer kitchen and sitting area. There is also no Wi-Fi, which means that this post was made from my phone, which is why there are no pictures in this post. It is all very well built but requires cleaning and maintenance, much of which will be my job. My days here look like this: wake up between 6 and 7, eat breakfast, and then work on the farm until lunch around noon. I then have a few hours to rest/do things for myself that I need to, like cooking or washing clothes. I will be responsible for my own food here, which I think is a good thing, because so far I’ve been eating at the main house and I don’t feel like I’m getting everything I need. Around 3:30-4:30 (depending on the day), I will then go with Cabello to the Barracao, which is the capoeira studio in the town. It is a beautiful building with a big space for training, a kitchen, bathrooms with showers, and windows that look onto the ocean. There are also more capoeira instruments there than I have seen in my entire life. I will help open up the building and sweep the floors in preparation for capoeira class, which I happens every day except Sunday. After class and a shower, we will head home for a quick dinner and an early bedtime. I am looking forward to settling into a rhythm here and